So you want to rock climb or boulder at Enchanted Rock?
Important notes for climbers from the Central Texas Climbing Committee (CTCC).
Traditional Area: As a State Natural Area (SNA), the natural character and features of Enchanted Rock are protected for the enjoyment of all visitors. We’re very fortunate that the granite domes and boulders at Enchanted Rock have enjoyed a long and ongoing history of traditional-style ascents. The use of pitons is never allowed, and crack climbs are almost exclusively protected using removable traditional (trad.) or “clean” gear. A few climbs involve a mix of pre-placed bolts and trad. gear placements (for example, Mercy Street on the News Wall). It is against park rules and regulations to use trees or other plants for protection, anchoring or rappelling, and any such use is punishable by a fine. Some of the more popular climbs are shown on the Enchanted Rock State Natural Area Climbing Areas map. As climbers we have a responsibility to be respectful of our surroundings and of the rights of other park visitors. If you would like to learn how to trad. climb or place trad. anchors, there are several experienced guide services available for Enchanted Rock, and a list of these is available on the . We advised that you fully learn and become fluent with these techniques before you attempt climbing in this traditional way.
Fixed Protection: No alteration of any rock feature or bolt is allowed without explicit written approval from the Texas Parks and Wildlife Department (TPWD). There are fixed expansion bolts placed as climbing protection in many areas at Enchanted Rock. Many of these climbs were originally bolted on lead, from the ground up. For the most part, bolted routes should be considered “sporty” rather than “sport,” meaning that there may be substantial run-outs between anchors, increasing the risk of falls. The SNA and community want to sustain the legacy of these climbs, and consider them and their story important to the climbing history at Enchanted Rock SNA. Before you start a climb, please be sure you know what you are getting into and that you are capable of safely leading the route. In case you may be unsure, many climbs are easily set up for top-roping.
Rope Length: As a traditional area, Enchanted Rock was bolted in the same fashion as many other multi-pitch trad. areas. The anchors are designed for you to treat the climb as a multi-pitch endeavor and either walk off the top or rappel from designated rap stations. This means, for instance, that the climbing rope will not reach the ground to enable safely lowering a climber, or rappelling from the anchors of various climbs on the northwest side of the main dome. In fact, many rappel stations in that area require at least a 70-meter rope. We strongly suggest that you always tie a safety knot near the end of your rope before climbing or rappelling. The next suggestion is to traverse to the rappel station on the News Wall to descend from all of the back-side climbs. This station is in Beer Can Alley, between the climbs Nobody Likes Bryant Gumbel and Late Nite. You will find two large rap bolts at the break in the boulders. Please do not use this rap station for top-roping or other purposes (except in an emergency), to keep the bolts available for use in descending.
Bolt Placements and Route Maintenance: Under a longstanding agreement with TPWD, the CTCC oversees and maintains all fixed protection and anchors at Enchanted Rock. If you feel there is a placement that needs attention for any reason, please advise the park staff and also contact us promptly at firstname.lastname@example.org. Please do not attempt to perform any maintenance work on your own, and be aware that any modification of the rock, or an existing placement, is illegal.